感謝各位的等待與支持甚麼是黑吉（ヘチ）釣法 第3章第2部分 前打 落入 黑吉 基本操作法在學習前打釣法之前 有一個很重要的基本常識 跟擬餌釣法一樣 不是魚來找你而是你來找魚 不是定點找魚守株待兔 而是時時找尋任何會藏魚的標點來落餌前打釣法 廣義而言 只要用具類似 釣法類似 我們皆稱為前打釣法 不過 我們又可以把這種釣法細分為 目印落入(落とし込み) 長竿前打(前打ち) 和 黑吉(ヘチ)這三種釣法 長竿前打主要以底層 和 消波塊周圍為主 落入則是以潮差帶貝層為主算是中表層 而黑吉釣法 則是全層探索 以下是介紹各類釣法的基本技巧普通落入釣法(落とし込み)落入釣法如圖(１, 11)的仕掛 目印是最關鍵的判別方式, 落入釣法主要靠目印落下的“瞬間加速度”來判別咬訊,這個目印是中繼線的一種 長度大約１公尺〜２.4 公不等 以明顯的段狀目印等距的黏在此中繼線上 把目標鎖定在貝層潮間帶後便輕輕的把餌投在貝層旁 目印會緩慢落入水中 如果沒有反應便走到下一個標點繼續觀察和重複這個動作 如果使用螃蟹為釣餌 可以讓牠們在水面上的貝層停留一下 在依水流時機 使其自然的落入水中 讓魚認為是螃蟹被水流帶入水中 這也就是”落とし込み” 的由來 只要有魚來咬 其目印會以不自然的方向和速度移動 當魚把餌帶走的瞬間 目印會被明顯的且大幅度的被拖走 就要伺機揚竿作合 喜歡釣普通落入釣法的釣魚人 比較不會去注重竿子的調性 有人甚至會使用普通的磯釣竿 或路亜竿 作釣 純粹以目印判別咬訊 不過真正的落入專用竿(竿身上會標明) 其竿子的類型和前打竿差不多 往往使用這類竿子 是以目印判別咬訊為主 以竿尾判別咬訊為輔助(竿尾的咬訊會在前打釣法的部分說明)前打釣法 (前打ち)前打釣法如圖(2) 和落入釣法最大的差別是在於前打判別咬訊的方法是靠前打專用竿(竿身上會標明)靈敏的竿先來傳遞的 ,這也是前打竿最重要的部分, 所謂的軟竿尾增加靈敏度 和硬竿肚以及較長的竿身來增加其力矩的張力並減少掛底或是鑽洞的機會,這種竿子的調性其實很極端 不過如果使用太軟的竿子來作釣 會因為水流和釣組重量所製造的假魚訊而影響作釣 ㄧ般而言,竿先的抖動, 下凹 或往旁邊拖行 都是咬訊, 有咬訊就要保持警戒 抓準適當的時機作合 一般而言前打釣法和釣竿的設計主要是針對消波塊提防 探釣各類消波塊邊緣 或是提防底 不過若釣組重量配置得當 絲柱使用明顯色線甚至是多色目印線 操作手法 和流水時機 都有掌握到 也可以玩類似落入的表層探釣 甚至可以玩類似黑吉釣法的“全層落入探釣“黑吉釣法(ヘチ)黑吉釣法如圖(3) 可以說涵蓋了 前打和落入這兩種釣法的特徵.黑吉釣法主要靠滯線的狀態來判斷信號, 不管是 遠拋 或漂流 還是 表探 或 搜底 這些都是要看滯線的位移狀態為主 竿尾的訊號和直感狀態為輔助 一開始落餌時整體的探釣流程 如同一個實驗原理中的控制變因 而這個實驗的控制變因是控制其滯線離水面 保持一定的距離和鬆緊度 如何保持 那就要配合捲線器適時的放線和收線 當滯線明顯的被一次又一次帶動 這就是咬訊 魚正在試探 這時要讓竿子跟著滯線被帶走的方向移動 雖然此時的滯線不用再保持一定的距離 但仍然要適時放線保持其原有的鬆緊度 減少魚類試探魚餌的戒心 當整組滯線被拉直且帶動著竿尾 那瞬間便是揚竿作合的時候 不過有一點很重要 所謂的滯線 不能放得太長 如果滯線過長會影響魚訊的判別 還有黑吉竿的靈敏度沒有前打竿來得準確 不過黑吉竿的優點在於因為竿身短 其魚訊傳導速度比前打竿還要快一些 反而直感的感覺 比前打竿還要來得準確 所以依我的經驗 對於黑吉釣魚人而言 除了滯線判別也要培養出一個自己的手感經驗作為輔助工具整理以下更詳細的各類咬訊判別最直接的咬訊:竿先向下彎曲位移後就沒有恢復到原來的位置 目印瞬間且大幅度位移 或滯線瞬間被拉直拖行 表示魚咬住餌要離開了 這就是揚竿作合的時機啣餌 或反方向帶餌: 竿先張力漸趨緩和 目印反方向緩慢移動 滯線變鬆 這種情況就是 有魚中途攔截正要落下的釣餌 啣住或往反方向移動,這時候先別急著作合, 須先微提竿子或將母線收短.再看竿先, 竿先ㄧ有反應 即立刻揚竿作合試探咬訊: 線的位移斷斷續續, 竿先持續抖動 這時的咬訊 有兩種可能 魚體比較小或是魚很有戒心，如果這時候揚竿作合大部分都不會中魚, 當出現這種信號, 要將所有動作停住, 保持 “暴風雨前的寧靜” 適時放線放鬆 減少其戒心 一直耐心等待 一直到出現第一種直接的咬訊為止What is Hechi fishing No.3The basic techniques of Maeuchi and Hechi fishing Before learning about the basics of maeuchi or hechi fishing, there is a really basic sense. Like lure fishing, you need to find the fish by yourself and not waiting for fish as changing spots frequently, so a little walk is necessary. Maeuchi fishing, as broadly speaking, any skills that are related or similar are all regarded as maeuchi type, but as details, it is divided into three different styles as Otoshikomi style, Maeuchi style, and Hechi style, the biggest differences are the spot they are targeting on, Otoshikomi targets the tidal places or the oyster walls which is closer to the surface, Maeuchi targets the bottom of the breakwaters or just the tetrapod edges , and for hechi you can be targeting on any part of the breakwaters from the bottom to the surface. The following paragraphs will be talking about these styles in basic skillsOtoshikomi style Otoshikomi as the rig of image (1, 11), there is a special indicator rig before the leader as a length from 1~2.4 meters. the rig is covered with plastic indicators neatly , which is how you observe when something gets a bite. The technique with this style is to drop your bait beside the oyster walls, and make it flow and sink to the water naturally. The bait then will be taking the indicator down the water in the same velocity. If nothing happened, then you will have to change your current spot right away by walking along the breakwater to another place and in the same techniques by dropping the bait again and again. this is also the reason why it is named as Otoshikomi (“Drop” in Japanese). When a fish gives a bite, the indicator will be moving unnaturally in a different direction and a higher velocity as a signal. When the fish is on, the whole indicator will be taken away obviously, which is the best opportunity to give your hit. Normally, the people fishing in Otoshikomi style will not be focusing on the flexibility of the rod because they will be more focusing on the indicator signal. But the rods that are specialised for Otoshikomi style (the information will be mentioned on the rod) the flexibility of the rod is similar to the Maeuchi rod. So more than only observing the indicator signal, you can also check the signal from the rod tip as to assist when the fish gives a bite.Maeuchi style Maeuchi as the rig of image (2), the biggest difference between Otoshikomi style is in Maeuchi style, we feel the biting signal from the rod tip as the most important part of the rod, the special designed Maeuchi rod would be made as an ultra fast type rod tip where the sensitive signal is from with a really strong body structure to increase the energy and strength while fighting with the fish. I believe that this kind of design could be hard to understand, but if using a rod with a whole ultra fast body structure, the current and the weight will affect your accuracy of the signal. Normally, the trembling , dragging, and bending on the tip are biting signal, which people should stay focus on when to give a hit or to wait for another one patiently. Normally the Maeuchi rod are designed to be targeting on tetrapods as spotting around the rocky breakwater edges or even the breakwater bottoms, but if the rig weight is well balanced with a double or multicoloured mainline and also if you are well managed on the water current, you could play something similar to the Otoshikomi style and even an “All Levelled Otoshikomi Style“ Hechi style Hechi as the rig of image (3), you can proudly say that this style contains the previous two styles (Otoshikomi and Maeuchi). When doing Hechi fishing, it is known to observe the bite signal from your stagnated mainline. you can either cast it or make it flow from the surface to the bottom, you can observe the stagnated mainline displacing state as the main signal and the rod tip as to assist. In the beginning, you will have to control the length and the looseness of the stagnated mainline by reeling in or releasing the line from your reel as to make a much more obvious view when fish gives a bite. When the line displaced again and again obviously and unnaturally, this will be known as the signal, this time the rod should follow the of the displacement. Furthermore when there is a bite signal, you can ignore the length of your stagnated line but not to ignore the looseness, if the stagnated line isn not loose enough, the fish will find out our tricks. When the stagnated line is pulled and dragged fiercely with the rod tip, this will be where you give a hit without any doubt, but the point is the stagnated line cannot be too long or this will affect the accuracy of the signal. Also for the shorter rod length comparing from other rods. this would be some kind of advantage to feel the bite faster than a longer maeuchi rod to your hand, so as my own experience, for people doing Hechi fishing, it is necessary to find some experience to feel the bite from bare hands as to assist the stagnated line signal.The list below shows the briefer information about the biting signalThe most direct signal: When the rod tip bends down and doesn’t go back ,the whole indicator will be taken away obviously; or the stagnated line is pulled and dragged fiercely, this means that the the fish is on.This is your best opportunity to give a hit.Holding in mouth or dragging to the opposite : when the tip tension goes smaller , the indicator displaces to the opposite way; or the stagnated line goes loose, this means that the fish holds the bait or goes to the opposite way. Be patient and not to give a hit. The best way is to raise up your rod a little or to reel in some line, and when the rod tip reacted after that, you should give a hit immediately.Testing and judging: The tip quivers and the indicator or the line displaced intermittently, this is when the fish is judging and testing the bait. If you give a hit right away, you will miss the fish every single time. The best way is to stop your movement, keep it nice and peaceful but to release your line timely, and wait till the direct signal occurs
